West Fork Mountain via Red Top and Hidden Lake

Located in the northwestern-most corner of North Idaho, the West Fork Mountain trail jumps from one lookout tower site to another, visits a string of picturesque mountain lakes, and plunges through old-growth forest and huckleberry-studded hillsides. If you’re lucky you get to spend a night at the magical West Fork Cabin, originally built in the 1930s to house smokechasers, but burnt down in 1998. It was rebuilt true to its original and is available on a first-come-first-served basis. Take good care of it!

Location Selkirk Mountains
Rating 4.3 out of 5
Difficulty More Difficult (steep sections in and out of Hidden Lake and up West Fork Mountain)
Distance 24.5 miles
Duration 9:02 hours moving time (hiking)
Elevation Gain 6,204 feet
High Point 6,343 feet (West Fork Mountain)
Low Point 3,746 feet (Trailhead)
Trail Type Out-and-back
Trailbed Packed dirt, loose rocks, rock slab
Water Hidden Lake, brook near West Fork cabin, several tributaries along trail #347, West Fork Lake, Caribou Lake. Note that the Red Top section is pretty much dry.
Status Proposed Wilderness
Administration Kaniksu National Forest
Permits None required
Conditions Very good. Had to climb over a few trees along trail #102 (Red Top)
Camping Red Top (dry), Hidden Lake, West Fork Cabin, West Fork Lake, West Fork Mountain (dry), Caribou Lake (possibly, I didn’t check it out)
Maps USGS Smith Peak, Shorty Peak, Grass Mountain, Caribou Creek
Trailhead From Bonners Ferry head north on US-95 for about 15 miles, then take Highway 1 north for another 2 miles. Turn left onto Copeland Road and head west across the Kootenai valley, about 4 miles. Bear right when the road merges with Westside Road #417 and continue northwest for 9 miles. The road will eventually turn into FR #281 (make sure to stay left around the switchback on the blacktopped road). Continue for another 8 miles, most of which is blacktopped, though expect a few potholes and some buckling. Once the road turns gravel, remain on #281, bypassing #2443, and at the next fork taking a left (taking a right gets you towards Hidden Lake). The marked trailhead is on the right, about a quarter mile up the road after the Cow Creek crossing. There is ample parking.

Google Directions (48.915799, -116.683155)

Season June to September (cabin year-around)
Squirrel Density Squirrels, ground squirrels, all kinds of squirrels!
Features Mountaintop, Lake, Structure, Grove, Meadow
Distance From
  • Coeur d’Alene 115.3 miles
  • Lewiston 229.0 miles
  • Sandpoint 69.8 miles
  • Seattle 419.5 miles
  • Spokane 141.7 miles
Resources
Nearby Hikes
Date July 21, 2017

Crawling fernsThe route to West Fork Mountain connects several trails, starting out with trail #102, leading from the trailhead at FR #281 into a lush cedar grove teeming with sprawling ferns. The trail immediately slopes upwards and is quite unrelenting in its ascent over the next four miles, as it climbs the northeastern flank of Red Top. With higher altitude the forest retreats somewhat, exchanging cedar with fir and spruce and larch, and the ferns yield to beargrass and huckleberries. As the trail ascends, it frequently moves along Red Top’s southeastern face, which is carpeted with huckleberries, loved, as evidence indicates, by bears, and is blessed with a nice breeze coming off Smith Creek.

Views of the granite roof of Red TopAbout two-thirds up you get a bit of a reprieve as you traverse a flattish lower hump of Red Top, but soon the trail gets steeper again and it switchbacks up the southern face, curls around the mountain and emerges onto the peak from the north side. That peak isn’t pointy at all; rather it’s a flattish bare knoll littered with the remains of a lookout tower. The views are tremendous, with Shorty Peak to the northeast and the Smith ridge to the east, and the Kootenai River Valley and the Purcells in the far distance in between. To the south you see deep into the Selkirk crest, featuring prominent places like the Lion’s Head, and to the southwest the destination ridge, West Fork Mountain. To the West, beyond the flattish ridge extending from Red Top, is Joe Peak, but Hidden Lake, true to its name, cannot be spotted in its cirque.

Beargrass along the ridge from Red Top to Hidden LakeThe trail continues southwest, at first along the ridge, then along Red Top’s southern face towards Hidden Lake. This is a particularly pleasant 2-mile stretch, at a steady slight decline, among open forest interspersed with beargrass meadows and fleeing grouse. It ends at the intersection with trail #21, heading off to the left (south). First, however, a visit to Hidden Lake is in order, along steep and rocky trail #102 for a little over a quarter mile.

Hidden Lake below Joe PeakHidden Lake really doesn’t come into view until you are actually already descending into its bowl at the feet of Joe Mountain. It’s the largest lake in the Selkirk Crest and gets a fair number of visitors due to its close proximity to FR #2545 and is popular with fishermen. This was the case when we visited, with fishermen criss-crossing the waters in an inflatable boat. There are a number of campsites along the lake and an especially nice one right where trail #102 meets the lake (an excellent opportunity for a swim and a refill of the water bottles, too).

The descent to West Fork Cabin leads through lush a forest thick with ferns…Trail #102 continues around the outlet of the lake and then downhill to FR #2545 for about three-quarters of a mile. For our trip, however, we climbed back up to the ridge above Hidden Lake and followed #21 to the south along the brim of the lake’s cirque. It is possible to bushwhack up to Joe Peak, but that “trail” (there really isn’t one) is very overgrown. Trail #21 switchbacks a bit along the eastern face, but soon crosses to the western side, with a first quick glance at the lookout tower atop West Fork Mountain, and enters a dramatically different vegetation zone. Gone is the beargrass and huckleberry carpet, replaced with ferns, hip-high in places, cow parsnips, equally tall, and other dense shrubbery and wildflowers. The trail is soggy in many places, thankfully frequently bridged by boardwalks. The tree canopy changes to old-growth fir and spruce, the red cedar having been logged a long time ago.

West Fork CabinWest Fork Cabin comes into view about 2 miles past the Hidden Lake ridge, quaintly perched on the edge of its own tiny meadow. This is a truly heavenly oasis, open to the public on a first-come, first-served basis. It features a small but powerful wood stove and three bunk beds. There is also an outhouse northeast of the cabin, hidden away in the woods (follow the trail uphill towards the Hidden Lake ridge for a few paces, then take the right branch at the fork for about 50 or so yards into the woods), plenty of working tools (saws, axes, shovels, ladders), cooking equipment (pots, pans, ladles), chairs, and a handy small brook less than 100 yards away.

Hewn down old-growth Western red cedar. A fair number were left standingThe cabin was unoccupied, but our plan (Plan A) was to stay at West Fork Lake, and thus we continued. There are a number of confusing trails surrounding the cabin; the correct one continues behind the cabin and leads down to a tributary of West Fork Creek in a quarter mile, where it intersects with trail #347. Trail #347 immediately crosses the tributary on a nice wooden bridge and enters a beautiful old-growth cedar grove. Alas, much of that grove is an private land and succumbed to the axe! Fortunately, though, a number of giant specimens were left standing, making this a truly special place.

Views along West Fork Lake trailThe trail at first continues flattish, but soon slopes upwards at a very manageable incline, all the while paralleling the creek. As it ascends, the trail is rather marshy with many of those buggy places covered by boardwalks. The last mile ahead of the lake consists of switchbacks, as the terrain gets steeper. Just ahead of the lake is a fork in the path, with the left branch leading about 50 yards to the lake and the right one upwards to West Fork Mountain.

West Fork Lake up closeWe swung a left, towards our intended destination of the day, West Fork Lake. The lake is a pretty sight, sitting in its forest-ringed bowl, but the shore turned out to be exceedingly swampy and the mosquitoes merciless. Not a good place for spending the night. We filled our 2 liters of water and made for the ridge. The trail up to the ridge is relatively short, but rocky and steep and is sure to get your heart pumping. The reward, though, was great, with a mountain goat and kid waiting at the top. That top, incidentally, is rather a longish granite-slab-topped ridge, with high points at the southern and northern extremities. At the southern elevation is the foundation of a guard shack and the rickety remains of a lookout tower, with the bottom rungs removed. Even at ground level, though, the views are splendid, with West Fork Lake cuddled in its cirque below and the eye searching eastwards towards Red Top and Shorty Peak and beyond that the Purcell range. After bushwhacking to the northern end, a comparatively easy feat, you’ll be treated to a view of Caribou Lake (there are 2, you can only see the lower one).

Bunk in West Fork Cabin (there are 3)The ridge is dry, however, and, winded from the ascent, we drank our 2 liters of water in no time. Thus, Plan B, staying on West Fork Mountain, went out the window, leaving us with Plan C, hiking back to the cabin. That we did, hoping all the while for it to still be unoccupied (the guest log indicated it was occupied in each of the prior few days!). And luck was in our favor that day! The stay at the cabin is a very memorable experience and for sure we’ll be back!

Enjoy this hike? Let us know in the comments below!

Trailhead
Trailhead

The lower part of the Red Top trail leads through a lush cedar grove
The lower part of the Red Top trail leads through a lush cedar grove

Crawling ferns
Crawling ferns

Huckleberries, before …
Huckleberries, before …

… and after the bear processed them
… and after the bear processed them

The Red Top trail is a nice single-track leading steadily uphill
The Red Top trail is a nice single-track leading steadily uphill

Views of the granite roof of Red Top
Views of the granite roof of Red Top

Shorty Peak
Shorty Peak

View east from Red Top, with the Smith ridge to the right, the Purcells in the background, and Shorty Peak to the very left
View east from Red Top, with the Smith ridge to the right, the Purcells in the background, and Shorty Peak to the very left

View south from Red Top, along its ridge
View south from Red Top, along its ridge

View south from Red Top
View south from Red Top

A ground squirrel standing up straight. Hes on the large rock slab, slightly to the left of the 2 beargrass stalks
A ground squirrel standing up straight. He’s on the large rock slab, slightly to the left of the 2 beargrass stalks

View north from Red Top
View north from Red Top

Beargrass along the ridge from Red Top to Hidden Lake
Beargrass along the ridge from Red Top to Hidden Lake

Hidden Lake below Joe Peak
Hidden Lake below Joe Peak

Hidden Lake up close
Hidden Lake up close

Descending from the ridge above Hidden Lake and looking southwest at the distant headwall over West Fork Lake. The lookout tower is just barely visible
Descending from the ridge above Hidden Lake and looking southwest at the distant headwall over West Fork Lake. The lookout tower is just barely visible

The descent to West Fork Cabin leads through lush a forest thick with ferns…
The descent to West Fork Cabin leads through lush a forest thick with ferns…

…and dotted with giant fir and spruce trees
…and dotted with giant fir and spruce trees

West Fork Cabin
West Fork Cabin

A tributary to West Fork Creek, about a quarter mile past the cabin
A tributary to West Fork Creek, about a quarter mile past the cabin

Hewn down old-growth Western red cedar. A fair number were left standing
Hewn down old-growth Western red cedar. A fair number were left standing

Western red cedar, left standing
Western red cedar, left standing

Indian paintbrush
Indian paintbrush

Views along West Fork Lake trail
Views along West Fork Lake trail

West Fork Lake up close
West Fork Lake up close

Headwall behind West Fork Lake and lookout tower
Headwall behind West Fork Lake and lookout tower

West Fork Lake from above
West Fork Lake from above

A giant boulder precariously perching atop West Fork Mountain
A giant boulder precariously perching atop West Fork Mountain

Mountain goat and kid
Mountain goat and kid

Naughty and the lookout tower
Naughty and the lookout tower

West Fork Mountain is really a longish ridge with higher points at the north and south ends. This is looking north.
West Fork Mountain is really a longish ridge with higher points at the north and south ends. This is looking north.

West Fork Lake from the tower
West Fork Lake from the tower

Panorama shot from West Fork Mountain
Panorama shot from West Fork Mountain

The 360-degree views are marvelous
The 360-degree views are marvelous

The lower Caribou Lake
The lower Caribou Lake

West Fork Mountain, taken from north end
West Fork Mountain, taken from north end

Dinner for two at West Fork Cabin
Dinner for two at West Fork Cabin

Bunk in West Fork Cabin (there are 3)
Bunk in West Fork Cabin (there are 3)

Stove in West Fork Cabin
Stove in West Fork Cabin

Twilight view from West Fork Cabin. The ridge is the southern end of Joe Peak
Twilight view from West Fork Cabin. The ridge is the southern end of Joe Peak

Guest log at the cabin. Its a busy place!
Guest log at the cabin. It’s a busy place!

Privy. It is in the woods, about 50 yards northeast of the cabin
Privy. It is in the woods, about 50 yards northeast of the cabin

View from the porch in morning light
View from the porch in morning light

West Fork Cabin, with the sun rising in the trees behind it
West Fork Cabin, with the sun rising in the trees behind it

West Fork Cabin. Well be back!
West Fork Cabin. We’ll be back!

Sun poking through the shrubs
Sun poking through the shrubs

Lacking an obligatory carcass, we resort to the obligatory grouse…
Lacking an obligatory carcass, we resort to the obligatory grouse…
Trailmap
Alternate Routes

  • Alternative access points are FR #2545 (extension of #655), providing access to Hidden Lake (about .7 miles from road), FR #2446 (extension of #281), providing access to West Fork Mountain trail #347 within a mile and West Fork Cabin within 1.25 miles.
  • Mileage from #281 trailhead to Red Top is about 4 miles, Red Top to ridge above Hidden Lake is 2 miles, descent to Hidden Lake a bit over a quarter mile, Hidden Lake ridge to West Fork Cabin about 2 miles, West Fork Cabin to West Fork Mountain about 4 miles.
  • Mileage by trail is approximately 7 miles trail #102, 3.5 miles trail #21, 4 miles trail #347

© 2016 – 2017 NaughtyHiker. All rights reserved. No duplication without permission.

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2 Comments Add yours

  1. Mike says:

    Looks like a great hike utilizing the cabin out there, and how cool to see a Selkirk mountain goat!

    Grouse you saw up at Shorty was still hanging around.. with 6 chicks!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. naughtyhiker says:

      Yes, I saw the chicks, too, both on Shorty and Red Top, but they immediately scattered all over the place, but the hen stayed put for the picture-taking. And Naughty’s presence didn’t help one bit…

      Like

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